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Saturday, March 12, 2016

Building the PKking Dark Elf Queen Part 1

Nice Package!
I just had to put this kit under the knife.  So here we go.  (I suggest listening to Excision during this phase of construction).  I am going to go through my process here in some detail, if you fall asleep at any point I will simply deduct points from your final score.

The model's core
The very first thing to do is get the model's core set.  By this I mean correctly fitted and aligned.  Everything else on this model will get added or positioned relative to this core structure.  Think of it as your armature (like the aluminum skeleton in a spaceship miniature).  Here is the core of the DEQ.  As noted in the unboxing, these castings are really clean, this means less work for me.  Less work grinding means more time shopping for shoes.  

#18 X-acto and maple block
I hate grinding resin.  When ever possible I will cut it off.  You need to be careful about this, resin chips and you don't want to be adding back something that you cut off.  Especially if it is a thin edge, these areas are time consuming to repair.  Resin is kinda like wood, but no grain.  Kinda.  What I mean is, if you were chiseling into oak, you would use a sharp tool and slice off a little at a time.  Same logic with resin, the trick is to slice off a little at a time.  Also, cut away from the detail or in the opposite direction of your eye.  You control the cut and if it chips (it will) it will be on the inside and hidden.  I have a bunch of these small maple blocks that I use to cut everything on.  They allow you to steady the part.

Thin slices and away from your fleshy bits
Most people don't use their #18 blade.  I think I use it more than the #11.  Remember, it's not a race.  Thin layers.  It goes very quick.

Look ma, no dust!
This took about 5 minutes.

Test fit.
Nice fit.  Notice that the edge of the leg where pour stub was removed is underneath corset detail on model. Before I went crazy and cleaned up this I test fit first to see if it is visible.  If it isn't, then I'm done, no sense in wasting effort on an area that will be hidden.  Remember, I have shoes to shop for.

Save the big chunks you cut off.
I save all the resin I cut off (throw them into one of the bags).  These are very useful to fix chips and holes on parts later on.  Because they are the same material they glue really well and sand the same as the host.  You'll see.

Save the bags parts came in.
Likewise, I save all the original bags the parts came in.  Usually there is little bits of resin junk in them.  As you are building you typically discover some little chip or something missing from a part.  If you saved the bags, chances are you can locate the little chip and glue it back on.  Oh yes, I know what your thinking.  This guy is anal.  It's Ok.  I've had worse.

Another pour stub.
Time to expunge this stub.

Same logic.  Cut away in direction of eye.
Another awesome tool.  Scalpel chisel.
...But you said.  Use very little pressure and BE careful.
Beautiful.
Sawing off instead.
In this case I am using a saw to remove the unwanted material.  When looking at this part my first inclination was to cut off the square part too.  Then I realized this was probably a keyed locator for the hair.  So before cutting I checked the other part and sure enough it was.  2 points for me!  Check how your parts go together so your not making work for yourself.

Square peg into square hole.
Viola!
So we got the basics sorted out.  Let's take a break before tackling the rest of the headdress and skirt.  See you next time!   

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