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Saturday, September 18, 2021

Finished At Last! Building The ICM 1/24 Model T 1911 Touring #8

We have reached the homestretch. The client and I decided that the interior looked so nice that the top should be changed to the down position. The first thing is to figure out how it is actually stowed.

What a wonderful image, even after building this model, I considered building another of this scene. Finding 1/24th scale children would be an interesting challenge, more than likely it would be best to simply build them from scratch. OK. This shows the working method of the stowage for the top quite well. Everything on the vehicle is made with simplicity and practicality in mind. The top is not unlike two hacked together tops from a pair of giant non-existent baby buggy's. The frames (or "bows") are broken up into two separate sections, each comprised of a pair of "U" shaped frame supports. The front section is simply removed from its anchors on either side of the front seat and is reconnected on top of the folded down rear frame. The fabric is folded in on itself and the whole unit is held together by a pair of straps on either side, which are plainly visible in the above photo. In some photos there is a cover to protect the folded top with more straps to hold it in place. I opted to not make a cover to keep things simple, especially since nearly all of the model was already built and painted.


It would have been easier to make the bows from brass, however I was worried  that it would all be too heavy. The folded top would only be attached to the body by four very small points. Making consistent bends in .060 styrene is challenging, making both bends on one part would be nearly impossible. To get around this a number of rod sections are bent over a candle. The best ones are then trimmed so that vertical sections are to scale, while the horizontal sections (which will be hidden under the folded fabric) are drilled out and telescope over a smaller diameter rod. In this way they can be adjusted to be the right size. The vertical sections are sanded down to a taper and styrene discs are attached using tube glue. The discs are drilled out so they can be attached to the body and/or to other bows.


The bows are connected to each other in the same manner as the real car, via a bolt that passes through two disc connectors. I used a trick from the old Monogram model kit instructions, in which a heated pin is used to mushroom the top of a pin. In this case a Grandt Line bolt is put into the connecting hole and a nail is heated over a candle to mushroom the other side. This creates a flexible connector between the two parts.


Here is a shot of the lower pair of bows being test fitted. Included in the kit is the bracket (at the rear corner of the body) that supports the top when it is folded down). The bow end connects to the car body with a separate part. This connector is cut off from the kits top (molded in the up position) and you can see the notch on the body where it will be glued in place. By the front seat is a second notch where the empty connector (for the front bow) will get glued.


When dealing with unknowns, I try test solutions, in this case I tried to make the fabric from tissue paper. I kind knew this probably would not work, but wanted to see first. The black tissue on the brass bows (on the right) show that the tissue is not flexible enough. In the center is a quick test of the fabric made out of Apoxie-Sculpt. It is water based and quite sculptable and perfect for this application.


The whole top would need to be done working from the bottom folded bits. Each would be allowed to dry and the next layer would be added. I made a fabric template for the rear panel (upper right) which is traced onto parchment paper (used in baking). The paper is mildly "non-stick", but I added a thin layer of Vaseline to make sure it would release. I mixed up some Apoxie-Sculpt and put it between the two sides of the parchment paper.


Using a glass jar as an impromptu rolling pin, the Apoxie-Sculpt is rolled "wafer thin". The outline of the rear panel drawn on the sheet is used as a guide.


Like so.


The panel sandwich is cut out.


The parchment layers are peeled away. It is like unwrapping a stick of ABC gum.


Each layer, starting at the bottom, is added and pocked and prodded to create the folds. It needs to be built in layers because you need a dry and solid base to hold while you are working.


After a few days you end up with this. Apoxie-Sculpt is great, it cuts and sands easily once dry, so you can fine tune it. It is also a light gray, so takes paint well. Notice all four brackets, each with a pin that I added, that will attach to the body.


I listen to a lot of things in a lot of different mediums (YouTube, Amazon Prime music, Radio, Podcasts, Compact Discs). I bought an inexpensive Blue Tooth turntable to listen to the sound of a stylus circling its way around a vinyl disc which has a spiral groove with thousands of tiny bumps in it which recreate the sounds of various kinds of musical entertainments.


The headlamp brackets snake their way up from under the frame. ICM really dropped the engineering ball here, the parts as designed are just butt joined from underneath. I had the foresight to add some pins and mounting holes. Even this wasn't enough to glue them in place, so two part epoxy was used on the join areas. Once the epoxy began to set up, I shimmed the lamps using some blocks and craft foam. Thank god the joins are underneath.


Same with the rear mounted lantern. This was way before trafficators or brake lights.



Two more oil lamps, probably "running lamps" and to provide light for the occupants. Legos are great for shimming, they are uniformly sized allowing you to discern if you oil lamps are on the same level.


The base is put on Yoga blocks and the four screws are driven carefully into the tires.


So that's it! I leave you with a few gallery shots, graciously taken by Bill Gudmundson.




Everything worked out. It was built as a commission, which usually is not so fun. I kept the fun by telling the buyer up front how things time-wise would play out and if there were any changes, that they would take time. And it worked, I had fun and the client got a model.

Next time we meet, I'll be working on one of these:


Are you ready for the Megami Device SIG?

Yes, Tell everyone, modeling is fun!

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